Introduction to Laos and the Border Town of Huay Xai

We were anxiously anticipating our first land border crossing in SE Asia due to countless stories of scams, exhortions, ridiculously long waits one hears from fellow travelers and guide books. Also, Duncan and I do not have the best luck when it comes to borders - border officials see our backpacks and assume we are drug smugglers or something. Anyway, after our overnight bus dropped us off in Chiang Khong in Thailand, we took a 3-minute boat ride across the Mekong River to Huay Xai, Laos. It was here that we were introduced to the laid-back Laos way. The visa on arrival application process was surprisingly efficient and painless. We were not asked a single question from border officials, our bags were not checked, and we were even given a pamphlet of commonly used Laos phrases. I think we're going to like this country.

The town of Huay Xai is essentially a one street town. Travelers only come here for two reasons: 1) to immediately catch the slow boat to Luang Prabang after crossing the border or 2) to do the Gibbon Experience. We were here to do the latter and thus had to stay here for two nights. It was here that we had our first taste of Beer Lao as we watched the sunset over the Mekong River:

We also had one of our best meals of the trip here after walking up top a table on the side of the road and signaling for 2 of whatever they were serving (something Duncan had been wanting to do all trip). It was basically noodles with meat and veggies in a super spicy broth - as they say in SE Asia "same, same" as things we had eaten before "but different".

The most entertaining thing in Huay Xai was the matron of our guesthouse, Mrs. Changpeng. She was the ultimate saleswoman, which led some of our French friends we met on the trip to refer to her as "a shark". She was so cute and walked super slow, but good luck walking into her guesthouse/ restaurant and not handing over money for a room, food, or a tour.